Beyond Vitamin C: CoQ10, Resveratrol, Astaxanthin and the Antioxidant Team
In our vitamin C guide we called vitamin C the diva of skincare. But even divas need a band. Antioxidants work best as a team, passing protection back and forth like runners in a relay. Let's meet the rest of the line-up.
First, why antioxidants?
Sunlight, pollution and everyday metabolism create reactive oxygen species (ROS), unstable molecules that can damage skin lipids, proteins and DNA. It's not just UV, either. A 2024 review notes that visible light plus infrared may account for roughly half of the skin's oxidant burden from sunlight, and that high doses of blue light raised ROS in skin cells in lab studies (Letsiou et al., Cosmetics, 2024). Antioxidants help neutralise these.
The relay-team idea
A review in Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia explains that antioxidants work as a network. For example, vitamin C regenerates vitamin E after it has "used itself up", and ubiquinol (the active form of CoQ10) can regenerate vitamin E too. The review also notes that combinations at lower doses are generally preferred over a single antioxidant at a high dose (Addor, 2017).
The famous proof of teamwork: adding ferulic acid to vitamins C and E stabilised the formula and roughly doubled its photoprotection in skin (Lin et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005). Worth knowing: the senior author also developed a well-known commercial C-E-ferulic serum.
Meet the supporting cast
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone): the body's own energy-and-antioxidant molecule, which naturally declines with age. It's oil-soluble and a gorgeous golden-yellow. Our dictionary entry suggests 0.05–0.5%, dissolved in warm oils. Prefer a water-friendly version? Try Liposome CoQ10.
Resveratrol: the grape-skin antioxidant. It penetrates skin well but is unstable, especially under UV, so it benefits from smart delivery systems (Mascarenhas-Melo et al., 2023). Pre-dissolve it in a glycol or alcohol, or choose Liposome Resveratrol. Our encapsulation post explains why that helps.
Astaxanthin: the deep-red carotenoid that colours salmon and flamingos, made by microalgae. It's a powerful antioxidant, but be honest: most human evidence is for oral astaxanthin, and topical trials so far are tiny (Davinelli et al., Nutrients, 2018). Use tiny amounts (it's intensely coloured), or try NLC Astaxanthin.
Ferulic Acid: the stabilising teammate for vitamins C and E.
Alpha Lipoic Acid: soluble in both water and fat, and often called a "universal" antioxidant. Topical evidence is limited, so it's best as a supporting player.
Others to know: Mixed Natural Tocopherols, Green Tea Extract and Ergothioneine.
Building an antioxidant serum
- Combine oil- and water-soluble antioxidants to protect both phases. For example: tocopherol + CoQ10 in the oil phase, and green tea + a vitamin C derivative in the water phase.
- Add at cool-down unless the supplier says otherwise. CoQ10 is the exception: it needs gentle heat to dissolve in oil (see our heat vs cool-down guide).
- Protect from light and air: airless or opaque packaging, always.
- Expect colour. CoQ10 is yellow and astaxanthin is red. Plan your shade.
- Keep claims realistic: "helps defend against environmental stressors" is fair. "Blocks blue light damage" is not.
The one antioxidant you can't skip
Antioxidants are brilliant backup, but they're not sunscreen. Wear a tested SPF every day (and please don't make it yourself, as we explained in our DIY sunscreen post).
Browse Antioxidants and Antioxidant & Anti-Pollution.