Tiny Bubbles, Big Difference: Liposomes, Niosomes and Other Delivery Systems

Some of skincare's best actives are also its biggest divas. Retinol breaks down in light and air. Vitamin C oxidises. Some ingredients irritate when they hit skin all at once, and others refuse to dissolve where you need them. The clever fix? Wrap them up. That's encapsulation: tiny carriers that protect an ingredient, help it travel and release it more gradually.

Why encapsulate at all?

• Stability: shielding fragile actives from light, oxygen and heat.
• Comfort: releasing actives gradually can reduce irritation. A 2024 review lists encapsulation, cyclodextrin complexes and lipid nanocarriers among the main strategies to reduce retinoid irritation (Narsa et al., Dermatology Research and Practice).
• Compatibility: letting an oil-soluble active live happily in a water-based gel, or vice versa.

Meet the carriers

Liposomes: the original bubble

Spheres built from phospholipids, the same family of molecules as cell membranes. They can carry water-soluble actives inside and oil-soluble ones in their walls. Examples: Liposome Retinol, Liposome Niacinamide. Building your own? Start with Hydrogenated Lecithin, Liposomal Grade.

Niosomes: the sturdier cousin

Like liposomes, but made with non-ionic surfactants. A 2025 review describes them as more stable, cheaper and easier to make than liposomes, able to carry both water- and oil-soluble actives with sustained release (note: the author discloses founding a skincare company) (Lens, Pharmaceutics, 2025). Try Niosome Niacinamide or Niosome Retinol.

SLNs and NLCs: the solid-lipid shields

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) lock actives inside a tiny solid-fat matrix. A review in Cosmetics explains that they protect fragile actives such as retinoids, give controlled release and form a thin film that reduces water loss. NLCs were developed to fix SLNs' tendency to push the active out during storage (Khater et al., 2021). Try NLC Retinol or NLC Bakuchiol.

Cyclodextrins: the molecular doughnut

Ring-shaped sugar molecules with a cosy cavity in the middle that "hosts" an active. A 2026 review shows cyclodextrin complexes improve vitamin A's stability against light and heat, boost solubility, control release and can reduce irritation (Amaro et al., Biomolecules, 2026). Try Cyclodextrin Complex Retinol or Cyclodextrin Complex Ferulic Acid.

Transfersomes and ethosomes: the flexible ones

Extra-deformable vesicles designed to squeeze through tight spaces. Examples: Transfersome Caffeine, Ethosome Retinol.

Formulating with encapsulated actives

• Dose by the dispersion, not the active. Our liposome retinol entry lists 1–10% of the supplied dispersion. Check the active content on the supplier sheet to work out your true percentage.
• Be gentle. Add at cool-down below 40 °C with low shear. High-speed blending can burst the carriers.
• Watch the neighbours. High levels of surfactants, solvents or alcohol can destabilise vesicles.
• Check the pH window (often about 4.5–7).

Know the rules on "nano"

Some carriers are nanomaterials. In the EU, cosmetics containing nanomaterials (other than listed colourants, preservatives and UV filters) must be notified to the Commission six months before going on sale, and the ingredient name must be followed by "(nano)" on the label (European Commission; Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, Arts 16 and 19). Our dictionary flags particle size and nano declaration as items to confirm with the supplier for these grades.

Is it worth it?

For fragile, irritating or hard-to-dissolve actives, often yes. Encapsulation is a big reason modern retinol serums are gentler than they used to be (see our retinoid guide). For sturdy, friendly actives like plain niacinamide, it's a nice-to-have rather than a must.

Explore Delivery Systems & Encapsulation and Vesicular Carriers.