5 Novel Ingredients With Wild Origin Stories (and What the Science Says)
Some skincare ingredients come from a lemon. Others come from bacteria that survive in salt lakes hotter than your bath. This post is about the second kind: five novel ingredients with origin stories worthy of a nature documentary, plus an honest look at how strong the evidence really is.
1. Ectoin: the survival kit from salty deserts
The origin story: Ectoin was first discovered in 1985 in bacteria living in extremely salty environments. These microbes make it to protect their cells from drying out and stress.
What the science says: A 2022 systematic review found that ectoin reduces water loss through skin, and that creams containing it helped with dryness and itch in people with eczema-prone skin (Dermatology and Therapy, 2022). Evidence confidence: good, for barrier and hydration.
Try it: Ectoin is water-soluble, tolerates a very wide pH range and is a dream for "sensitive skin" serums. See the dictionary entry for use levels.
2. Ergothioneine: the mushroom antioxidant
The origin story: This amino acid is made by fungi and certain bacteria. Humans can't make it and get it through diet, and mushrooms are by far the leading food source (Journal of Nutritional Science, 2020). Scientist Bruce Ames even proposed it as a possible "longevity vitamin" (EurekAlert!).
What the science says: Lab studies show it protects skin cells from UV-induced oxidative stress (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2024). Evidence confidence: promising, mostly lab-based.
Try it: Ergothioneine works at tiny percentages. Pair it with our Mushroom & Fungal Extracts for a fully fungi-themed antioxidant serum.
3. PDRN: yes, the "salmon DNA" one
The origin story: PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) is a DNA fragment ingredient, mostly sourced from salmon. It's been used in Korean aesthetic clinics for over a decade and went viral in the West around 2022 as the "salmon sperm facial" (NBC News Select).
What the science says: A 2026 narrative review calls the evidence promising but "fraught with inconsistencies", and much of it involves injected clinic treatments rather than topical creams (Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery). Evidence confidence: early for topical use.
Try it: PDRN / Sodium DNA suits K-beauty-inspired serums and essences. Keep claims modest, and read the regulatory notes before you sell.
4. Polyglutamic acid: the sticky bean secret
The origin story: Polyglutamic acid (PGA) was first found in natto, the famously stringy fermented soybeans eaten in Japan. It's made by Bacillus subtilis bacteria (Cosmetics, 2024).
What the science says: It's a powerful humectant that holds water on the skin's surface and leaves a smooth, springy film. Evidence confidence: solid, as a hydrator.
Try it: Polyglutamic Acid layers beautifully with hyaluronic acid. Compare them in Hyaluronic Acid & Hydrators.
5. Plant extracellular vesicles: the "plant exosomes"
The origin story: Plant cells release tiny membrane-wrapped packets called extracellular vesicles (EVs), often marketed as "plant exosomes". They carry proteins, lipids and other molecules.
What the science says: A 2025 review found anti-ageing, anti-pigment and anti-scar effects, mostly in lab studies. It also notes there are no industry standards yet and very few clinical trials (Extracellular Vesicles and Circulating Nucleic Acids, 2025). Evidence confidence: exciting but very early.
Try it: Start with Centella-Derived Extracellular Vesicles or Rose-Derived Extracellular Vesicles. Add them at cool-down and follow the supplier's handling notes closely.
The takeaway
Novel doesn't mean proven, and it doesn't mean useless either. A smart approach: build your formula on well-understood basics like humectants, barrier lipids and a proper preservative, then add one novel star and make honest claims about it.
Find more like these in our Trending Ingredients 2026 and New Arrivals collections, or browse the full Ingredient Dictionary.