Why Everyone's Suddenly Asking for Azelaic Acid (and Its Easy-Going Cousin)
Some ingredients go viral overnight. Azelaic acid took the slow road. For years it was mostly something a dermatologist prescribed. Now it's one of the most requested ingredients by people who deal with blemishes, redness or uneven tone, often all three at once. So what's the fuss about?
Meet azelaic acid
Azelaic Acid is a dicarboxylic acid found naturally in grains like wheat, barley and rye, and also made by a yeast that lives on our skin. It's a white powder, and famously awkward to dissolve (more on that below).
Why people love it: three jobs in one
A 2015 evidence-based review explains that azelaic acid acts against acne-causing bacteria with no resistance reported, calms inflammation, and inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in pigment production (Schulte et al., Journal of Drugs in Dermatology). That's the appeal: one ingredient that addresses spots, redness and marks.
A 2022 systematic review found the strongest evidence for rosacea, strong evidence for melasma and moderate evidence for acne (Searle et al., Journal of Dermatological Treatment).
In the US, prescription azelaic acid products include a 15% gel for the bumps and pimples of rosacea (FDA label) and a 20% cream for acne. Those are medicines. Cosmetic products typically use lower levels and must make cosmetic claims.
"Is it pregnancy-safe?"
You'll often read that azelaic acid is a go-to during pregnancy, partly because very little is absorbed into the body. The FDA label for the 15% gel notes that use in pregnancy is not expected to result in fetal exposure. Still, the right answer for any individual is "ask your doctor", and we'd never want a blog post to replace that conversation.
The formulator's headache
Azelaic acid is not very water-soluble. Our dictionary entry notes it dissolves in glycols and is usually pre-dispersed or used as a suspension, at a preferred pH of about 4–5. That's why many azelaic products are creamy suspensions rather than clear serums, and why homemade versions can end up gritty.
Tips if you're working with it:
- Use a very fine, micronised grade and disperse it thoroughly, with a high-shear mixer if you have one.
- A suspending polymer helps keep it evenly distributed. Browse Suspending & Viscosity Agents.
- Check pH at the end, and patch test. Some tingling is common at first.
Meet the easy-going cousin: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD), also sold as Azeloyl Glycine, is azelaic acid joined to the amino acid glycine. The result is water-soluble, so it slips easily into clear serums, toners and gels.
- A trade article from the ingredient's developers describes PAD as a water-soluble azelaic derivative that helps lighten tone and balance sebum (Cosmetics & Toiletries). As always, note who's behind the data.
- An independent clinical study found a cream with PAD and hydroxypropyl chitosan significantly reduced facial redness in people with rosacea over 28 days (Berardesca et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2012).
Which should you choose?
- Want the most researched option and happy with a creamy texture? Azelaic acid.
- Want an easy, elegant water-based serum or toner? PAD. Check the use level and pH first.
Friends that pair well
Niacinamide for oil and tone, Zinc PCA for shine, Allantoin or Madecassoside for comfort, and Tranexamic Acid for stubborn marks.
Explore more in Acne & Blemish Control, Soothing & Redness and Tone-Evening Actives.
Education only, not medical advice. Rosacea, acne and melasma are medical conditions, so see a dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.