Cleansing Oils and Balms: How Oil Removes Oil (and How to Make One That Rinses Clean)
Here's a chemistry rule you already know from the kitchen: oil dissolves oil. That's why a cleansing oil glides away long-wear foundation, waterproof mascara and water-resistant sunscreen that a foaming cleanser struggles with. Cleansing oils and balms are now loved worldwide, as the first step of the double-cleanse ritual and on their own.
Why oil cleansing works
Makeup, sunscreen and sebum are mostly oily materials. Dermatologist Zoe Draelos explains that only oil can dissolve some of the toughest products, like waterproof mascara, and that cleansing oils turn milky when they meet water so they can be rinsed away (Dermatology Times).
There's data too. In a small study of 20 people, a cleansing oil left about 5.8% of a waterproof sunscreen behind, versus 36.8% with a foaming cleanser, and fewer people reported dryness afterwards (Chen et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020).
Plain oil vs a real cleansing oil
This is the key difference. Plain oil dissolves makeup, but then it just sits on your skin, because water can't rinse it off. A cleansing oil contains a small amount of an oil-soluble emulsifier or surfactant. When you add water, it emulsifies into a milk and rinses away cleanly, taking the dissolved grime with it.
The "oil cleansing method" with plain oils has fans, but dermatologists warn it can clog pores in breakout-prone skin (Medical Xpress / University of Cincinnati). A rinsable formula solves most of that.
Blueprint 1: the cleansing oil
- Light, fast-rinsing oils (about 85–92%): Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sunflower Seed Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Safflower Seed Oil or Tsubaki Seed Oil.
- Emulsifier (about 5–12%): Polysorbate 80 is a reliable starting point. PEG-free cleansing-oil emulsifiers exist too, so follow the supplier's guidance on level.
- Antioxidant: Tocopherol at about 0.5%.
- Optional: a few drops of an oil-soluble extract such as Calendula CO2 Extract.
Test it: put a little on dry skin, massage, then splash with water. It should turn milky right away and rinse off without leaving a greasy film. If it doesn't, add a little more emulsifier in your next test batch.
Blueprint 2: the cleansing balm
A balm is the same idea in solid form: oils and butters, firmed with wax, plus an emulsifier so it turns milky with water. Dermatologist Naissan Wesley notes that heavy or poorly rinsed balm residue can contribute to clogged pores or milia, so the emulsifier really matters (MDedge Dermatology News).
- Oils: about 55–65% (as above)
- Butter: about 10–15% Shea Butter for a cushiony melt
- Wax: about 5–10% Candelilla Wax or Jojoba Esters
- Emulsifier: about 10–15%
- Tocopherol
Melt everything gently, stir, pour and cool. Firmness varies with your wax and climate, so test a small batch first, especially if your customers live somewhere hot.
How to use
- Apply to dry skin with dry hands.
- Massage for 30–60 seconds, including over eye makeup (keep eyes closed).
- Add a little water and massage again until milky.
- Rinse well. Follow with a gentle second cleanser if you like.
Keep it waterless
Because these are anhydrous, they don't need a water-phase preservative. Store them away from shower water: if water gets inside, preservation becomes a concern (see our waterless beauty post).
Shop the base oils in Carrier Oils and Esters & Emollient Bases.